On Thursday morning, April 19, I boarded a bus at the Pittsburgh Airport for a several hour trip to Morgantown (WV) where I was deposited at a parking garage with very few services nearby. I sat for five hours waiting for my connection to Charleston (WV), which arrived at 6:00 PM. The passengers included an older man who was somewhat verbal and unruly. The driver stopped and took him off the bus to talk with him twice. Then, when he acted up again, the driver turned the lights on and went back to speak with him. I saw him with the man's ID making a phone call. A short while later, we stopped "for a smoke break". The police showed up and took the man to the ground right outside my window! Sad!
An hour layover at Charleston late at night and then a ride to Witheville (VA) for another hour layover. A long trip to Knoxville (TN) - which was WAY out of my way! Then an early morning trip to Bristol (TN) - my destination. All-in-all, 24 hours and lots of adventure!
I quickly arranged an Uber ride to Damascus (VA) where I re-engaged the AT with a half-mile walk along a former railroad bed. Then the trail headed up the mountain and kept me moving upward the rest of the day. It was a good test for my hip, which hasn't bothered me yet (PTL!!!).
I camped alone that night. The next day offered more mountain-climbing. I knew I had several very challenging mountains to cross before the elevation leveled out, but it surprised me how hard it was finding the top of these mountains. I spent three days gaining elevations over 5,000 feet! Those three days were warm and I hiked in short sleeves!
Day four held some unique challenges including very strong winds that actually blew me off the trail many times. I was exhausted toward the end of the day as I thought I approached the top of 'Buzzard Rock' mountain. Then it opened to a massive bald area that continued up for another half-mile! The temperature dropped significantly and I had to stop to add clothing. Upon reaching 'Buzzard Rock', the view was IMPRESSIVE! But it was getting late and I needed to find a place to camp. [I was told that those who came after me had to cross this area on their knees because of the fierce winds; plus, it immediately fogged in and they saw no view at all!]
I found a flat space beside another tent and set up for a long night of high winds that made it difficult to sleep. At 5:00 AM, it rained! At 7:00 AM, I was up and on the trail for a day of phenomenal wind. At first I lost elevation and then began to gain it again after a road-crossing. It was another forever climb that sucked my energy. Toward the end of the day, I capped the mountain in a mist and was first into a shelter (PTL!). It was a long evening. Four other guys eventually joined me. The wind howled all night and the rain poured down! I was glad to be in a shelter since my tent was soaked.
The next day, we hiked all day in a downpour with cold wind blowing. The trail turned into a creek. In spite of having bread bags on my feet, they still were soaked because of the depth of the water on the trail. I entered the Grayson Park area and started seeing evidence of ponies! :-) Toward the end of the day, I reached the next shelter and parked for the rest of the day and night. Again, five others joined me.
NOTE:
Backpacker's midnight is 8:00 PM! I have never seen anyone stay up later than that. Most are in the sack by 7:30 PM and don't emerge until 7:30 AM. Sheer exhaustion makes you yearn for sack-time!
Three ponies showed up that evening and tried to run off with anything we left lying around. We had to be forceful in scaring them away. One, in particular, would come right up and try to grab food out of your hand! It was intimidating at first.
The next morning: more rain and mist! Pack up and head out! By the end of this day, pretty much everything I had (except my sleeping bag) was soaked. Hypothermia was becoming a real threat due to the cold temperatures. I got lost that day; the trail was VERY POORLYi blazed in the Grayson area. Fortunately, my GPS kept me heading for a point of intersection with the AT. Actually, I think my faux paux may have saved me a section of steep climbing. I didn't mind. :-) I was walking in a thick fog/mist anyway, so there wouldn't have been any views.
I arrived at my next shelter and intersected with several hikers who were all moving on. I began to shiver and knew I had to make a decision: move on or get into my bag asap! I saw that a road crossing was 1 1/2 miles ahead. Eight miles up that road was Troutdale, VA where a Baptist Church operates a hostel. Unforunately, we'd had no phone service for five days to call for a shuttle. I arrived at the road and began walking toward Troutdale. There was very little traffic and most was going the other way. The sun broke through and I stopped to take off my rain gear. Due to my hearing, I almost missed a coming car - but spun around and stuck out my thumb. An older couple stopped and picked me up and delivered me to the hostel door (PTL!!!!).
The hostel is a two-room, plywood bunk room with a heater. Water is outside along with a picnic table and port-a-potty. Not luxury, but a BLESSING! All the pastor asks is for a donation. They also offered a shower down at the church and even provided a towel! It felt great. At 7:00 PM, I went down for the Wednesday night Bible study. Pastor Ken Riggens taught on Romans 1:16 and it was amazing! There were six of us! Wonderful people. I asked if anyone knew of a way for me to get to Marion (VA), which is a larger town with hotels and a Walmart for resupply. The pastor's wife, Mary, offered me a ride the next morning at 7:00 AM.
She dropped me at the outskirts of town and I walked to a Bojangles for a great breakfast!!!! Then I chose a hotel and dropped my bag in the lobby (trusting it would be ok). I took my dirty laundry and walked a mile to a laundromat to wash my clothes. Walking back, I stopped at McD's for some french fries and saw some other backpackers. I also stopped at Dollar General and Walmart to resupply. By then, I was able to get into my room (1:30 PM). I settled in and unpacked my gear and began to recharge my phone/chargers as well as communicating with family and friends.
I'd been dreaming about Pizza Hut, so I decided to walk another mile to eat there. I opened the door and it was raining! Oh well, what's a little rain? I walked it anyway and thoroughly enjoyed my meal.
It's now Friday, and Mary is going to pick me up and return me to Troutdale at the end of her work day. Backpackers call a day off a 'zero day'; it simply means no miles! It's not uncommon to take two zero days together. Mary has suggested that I "slack pack" the next section. That means that I hike a section of the trail with a very light pack and then return to the hostel for another night inside. It's very tempting since rain is forecast for tomorrow. After that, however, the forecast shows lots of sunshine for the next week! Woo Hoo!
My biggest problems:
1. Exhaustion! I get really tired climbing these never-ending mountains!
2. Loneliness! I really miss Debbie and interaction with others. My hearing makes it difficult to participate in conversations (especially when it's windy and rainy).
Thanks for your kind thoughts and prayers. I hope you enjoy following my minimal progress. Don't forget to lift a prayer for the ICCM children!
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